Torchies new project
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Personally I would try and take the skirt straight across the top around of the fender to the back and try and figure out a way to attach it at the fender to body line. Excuse the terrible editing but something like this.
That could work as well Ian. Sort of like a crusier skirt. A REALLY BIG cruiser skirt.LOL
I would have to make them an “Overlay” style but that way be easier to do. Maybe I will mess with that this winter as I have the uncut rear fender in my shop still.
Torchie
Torchie, I wonder if it would be feasible to drop the rear bumper a couple of inches. Â That may help give you a better target for the bottom line of any skirt you might create and allow you to end the skirt ahead of the bumper (less “cruiser”). Â A lower rear bumper would also add to the visual tail-dragger stance we all aim for.. Â Food for thought since I don’t think you have enough to ponder! Â ;D
Dave
Jus' creepin' along..
Good suggestion, Dave. Thanks.
The rear bumper is high on this car. I did plan on tucking them in a bit.
Some of this stuff will be determined once I get the Body on the new chassis. Hopefully first thing in the spring.
Torchie
Tinwolf.
For some reason I can’t see your latest post. I got an e-mail notifacation but nothing is showing up in the thread.
Rik. Help please!!!
Torchie
Tinwolf. For some reason I can’t see your latest post. I got an e-mail notification but nothing is showing up in the thread. Rik. Help please!!! Torchie
Yes sorry about that. There are still some issues with posts, sometimes not uploading. Might be because Wolf tried to embed a video, but it disappeared completely when he tried to edit it. Nothing I can do about that at the moment. But I will try to get failing post up as soon as possible.
This is what Wolf wrote.
“I just saw this chopped -53 Chevy on Deadend Magazine youtube flick , maybe its something like this your thinking of building your Dodge , no skirts or Appletons , just clean and neat ! Uhh looks cool crusing down the street !!!”
Enjoy the beauty of Customizing
Thanks Rik.
Nice looking car. I’m not into the “laying frame” thing but I like the Pontiac shark fin trim and the clean lines.
A lot like I had in mind.
Torchie
Our CCC friend Larry Pointer sent me a picture of what appears to be a 49 Dodge with skirts.
They look like overlays and go almost to the trim line as Ian suggested.
The other 2 pictures are of 1950 Plymouth Skirts. They are flush fit and I’m not sure that they match the wheel opening shape.
Torchie
It’s been awhile.
Very unproductive winter here project wise….
But this is starting to peek out from behind the snow banks.
We had about 14 Feet of accumulated snow here this winter according to the snow pole in the nearest town but my plow guy swears I get more then anybody else he plows for. LOL So I suspect our total is a bit more.
Supposed to be in the low 50’s (Fahrenheit) here this weekend so that will speed up the melting process.
Looking forward to being able to post some real progress pictures.
Torchie
I’ve reached a stopping point on the boat restoration and have now turned my gaze back to the Dodge.
Stripped the paint and copious amounts of body filler off the DS front fender. This obviously has been repaired before.
When I sectioned this I only removed paint along the cut line so I could tack it all together. Now the real story emerges.
The long cut is mine from the sectioning. The nasty patch job IS NOT mine.LOL
You can imagine how much filler it took to cover that bump.
Pics tell the story.
Torchie
Glad you’re back on it. Old repairs can be quite interesting. Almost as interesting as previous restoration efforts – as many have discovered, restorers are not scared of mud!
My sloper had some restorer work – mud over tar paper. It also has some older repair, done in lead, which is not so bad.
Glad you’re back on it. Old repairs can be quite interesting. Almost as interesting as previous restoration efforts – as many have discovered, restorers are not scared of mud! My sloper had some restorer work – mud over tar paper. It also has some older repair, done in lead, which is not so bad.
I hear you Tony. I’m on the downhill side of my skills (At least so it seems to me) but there is still a line that I won’t cross when it comes to working on these old buggers. I no longer seek “perfection” but refuse to accept the “It’s good enough” school of thought. Probably why it’s taken me so long on the wooden boat as I have had to re do more a few of my own less then attempts.
Now. I’m frenching the headlights and I plan on using the original headlight bezels. They are the accursed Pot metal .
I can’t afford to buy steel ones either new or vintage..
I have heard all the naysayer when it comes to bonding them to the fenders, but for every 10 screams of “No you can’t do that” I have read of people that have had success with this process.
Anybody out there that has bonded Pot metal to steel that is willing to share how they did it and weather or not it worked?
Looking for real world experiences here. Thanks.
Torchie
So happy to see new updates on this one Torchie…
Sorry can’t help on the headlights issue. Will do search later to see if I can come up with something.
Enjoy the beauty of Customizing
Glad your back on Torchie, on the headlites have you thought about useing modern day bonding? the sort they glue car panels on with these days, comes in a small syringe type thing, I have used it metal to metal and metal to fibreglass and has not cracked or split after 4 years, it really does stick anything together and can be ground and shaped
So happy to see new updates on this one Torchie… Sorry can’t help on the headlights issue. Will do search later to see if I can come up with something.
Thanks Rik.
Glad your back on Torchie, on the headlites have you thought about useing modern day bonding? the sort they glue car panels on with these days, comes in a small syringe type thing, I have used it metal to metal and metal to fibreglass and has not cracked or split after 4 years, it really does stick anything together and can be ground and shaped
Thanks Mark. I have been looking at Fusor brand panel adhesive. as well as a 3M panel adhesive.
Also looking for any thing that doesn’t involve having to buy a special applicator though. If I have to spend too much for the adhesive and the applicator tool then I might as well just buy some new 50’s style Chevy steel rings. $ 125 for just the rings.
Eastwood have one that can be used with a standard Caulk gun. It is currently on back order though.
I know that may sound cheap but my budget on this car keeps getting smaller as prices on everything here keep going up.
I have been using 3M 5200 on the wooden boat project. A great commercial adhesive( IT sticks to everything. Including the person using it.LOL)Â but not condusive to having body filler put over the top of it.
Torchie
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