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Single Stage vs Base/Clear

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  • #54967
    kustomland
    Participant

    Rob and others on the C.C.C This 696’s DuPont clear ……It is the second best clear you can by from Du Pont / AXULTA , It is called a UNIVERSIAL CLEAR because you can spray it over other paint systems…..

    696’S Du Pont clear is 1 step down from HOUSE OF KOLOR CLEAR ……

    HOUSE OF KOLOR CLEAR AND Du Pont’s best clear is the same level of quality and I spray both tho you will pay $800 a can and when doing KUSTOM PAINT with flake and kandy jobs this will cost you a lot of moneyĀ to do a paint job, This does not include the person level of skill painting and pay for there time and skill….

    ABOUT $490 with hardener…

    KUSTOMLAND

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    #54969
    kustomland
    Participant

    Robb and others onĀ the C.C.C ..

    This old skoll Du Pont single stage Lacquer primer fill and sand , This is what BARRISĀ  and the other builders used in the day. It also came in RED OXIDE….

    The other can is the new AXULTA one…..131’S

    KUSTOMLAND

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    #54971
    kustomland
    Participant

    Rob and others on the C.C.C

    This is Old skoll ” SEALER ” it is watered down primer, And is what you would spray on top of the LAC PRIMER before you paint the KOLOR, You would spray this wet and it was a sealer to stop bleeding of kolor into the primer, You could spray kolor on top of this wet before it dryed…You can not buy this any more and now….

    They call it 222’S and is watered down clear and is very odd because when you spray 222’SĀ Ā it is clear not gray so you can see the primer still , I don’t use it and its is not asĀ very good and is $300 a can andĀ  not worth it…..So I now skip this stage………

    KUSTOMLAND

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    #54973
    kustomland
    Participant

    Rob and others on the C.C.C.

    This is old skoll full base ENAMEL and takes a harder and is what you would want to paint you ride with…..

    KUSTOMLAND

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    #54975
    kustomland
    Participant

    Rob and others on the C.C.C

    This is what I love the most old skool original LAQUER…. This is now banned in the U.S.AĀ …

    This is what BARRIS USED and is 100% correct for that period paint job……

    Thos days in the U.S are long gone now……. This is what they used when you hear them speak about 30 coats of old skool LAC…. Hand rubbed with 3 months between coats…..!!!

    KUSTOMLAND

     

     

     

     

     

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    #54979
    kustomland
    Participant

    Rob and other on the C.C.C

    Now Rob so you know the pigments of kolorĀ used in VALSPARĀ HOUSE OF KOLOR are used in both BASE COAT CLAER COAT / AND there old skool Enamels…What this means Ā Ā if you pick or make up a kolor it is only the BINDER that changed the paint from BASE COAT TO ENAMEL….

    Du Pont also did this , So before this you could only get some kolors in enamel …..Then when science changed they made the binders different so the pigments could be used in all there systems….

    Hope this explains paint……

    Also love the 55 CADDY…..Building one my self………. Gene Winfield and I are going to chop it together….

    KUSTOMLAND………

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    #55007
    mark wojcik
    Participant

    You’re always going to get a lot of opinions, and controversy with any talk about paint. Ten painters, ten expert opinions.

    My take on the subject: Today’s BC/CC and SS are very good products. Relatively easy to use, very durable. Very toxic, as well, sue all safety precautions they recommend. Colors or not quite what they should look like, though on old cars. IF you are looking for an original look. BC/CC is too plasticky shiny. SS is also shiny, but no depth, looks good for an old OEM enamel finish (stock Ford,Ā  Mopar). Clearcoat OVER a base does not increase depth, only shiny-ness.

    Lacquer has depth. It comes from multiple layers, and the paint having a lot of transparency to it. If you are tuly looking for a lacquer finish, use lacquer. It is less chemical and abrasion resistant than modern uros, or catalyzed enamels.

    If you want a good compromise for a lacquer look, but durability of modern paints, Use a SS urethane color (I’ve only used solid color, haven’t tried metallic), and paint a couple coats to get full coverage. Then mix more, half and half with clear, and shoot 3 more coats. Even with buffing, you have enough partially transparent coats to come close to the depth of a lacquer job. Not perfect, but better than using modern paint “as is”.

    Back in the day, they made a couple different types of clear you could put over lacquer, as well. Not sure if any companu even recommends this any more. My old boss used to do Imron over lacquered motorcycle tanks, to prevent problems if gas spilled. HOK used to give instructions on how to put their urethane clear over lacquer when they made both paint systems.

    #55031
    CadillacRob86
    Participant

    Tons of info to consider.Ā  I’ll do the best I can with a decent budget.Ā  Not going to be a Barret Jackson car, but something I can enjoy with my wife for years to come.

     

    I appreciate all the input guys I really do.Ā  Thanks!

    #55037
    Mr. Kool
    Participant

    Lot of good info here Been painting with DuPont for 15 years…love it!!

    Good luck with your paint.

    Don’t want to hijack this thread but I think it would be a good idea to tell and show us what can be done to do a paint job ” period correct” with products available now.

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