Palle Johansen 1947 Cadillac
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Man that looks incredible. Now I know what it feels like to be colorblind đ
Robert A. Radcliffe III
King KustomsThanks…i dont get to post much these day. work is killing it..now i cant wait to see it outside in the sun. i used bronze powder in the clear to get that real 40´s feeling. ive never seen anything glow and sparkle that much.
Bert..i hope to meet you somewhere this summer. lets talk about where to go..is it Abomber this year or do you have other plans
Last weekend I visited Palle and saw the ’47 Cadillac Project for the first time since 2015. Back then the car was still dark red and we had been traveling back and forth with it to Sweden. Since then a lot has happened, which can be seen in this thread.
Sadly after Palle’s last update something bad had happened with the paint of the car. The experts are not sure what happened, but the paint had sort of slightly re-positioned in large sections underneath the clear. Making sections of the paint look a bit wavy underneath the clear. The clear coat was absolutely perfect, and super smooth, but from certain angles you could see the uneven paint underneath it.
So… the Caddy will sadly have to be repainted… which is a real shame since the color looked absolutely stunning. And the plan had been to have it back on the road by now to be able to cruise it during this summer. I also saw the interior for the car and that looks also absolutely stunning. The color, and looks and feel… stunning! Also the trim pieces that Palle hand made for the extended front fenders looked absolutely perfect.
Here are two snapshots I took showing the Caddy how it sits in the shop right now… sorry had to make them black and white for now.
Enjoy the beauty of Customizing
Sounds like a strange problem. I’d be very interested to find out what it is. Big job to fix going by what you’ve told us. What a pity.
Palle I went back and had a look at your painting photos and re read the posts, “comments ” I think it was 1 of 2 issues or you had both at the same time….
First I have only had this happen to 1 time on a kustom Mercedes I did in 2012…. I noticed you painted car in ” BASE COAT ” / then ” CLEAR COAT “…!!! So this is what happens in this scenario…….
Witch of the following did you do…?
Paint car black base kolor then just clear… left to dry over a period of time then rubbed clear back ….Then re cleared with bronz powder…??
Or
Did you paint car black with base kolor then first cleared car first bronze powder on several coats until happy with the amount, then empty paint gun and add straight clear and give final clear coat….????
The reason is if you wet sand you primer you can get hard water stains on the primer and even when you wash it off and even wax and grease it you can not see it….When you paint the base kolor it bleeds the hard water stain through the base and you can still not see it , So after you base kolor it in black ….you allow to dry and tack it off to get any dust or hairs off……When you wax and grease it and wipe it you can not see the water stains even with perfect light and a good eye…….If you then clear it with or with out and flake or bronze powder it will look like glass when you walk out the booth but will start to distort the polymers not in the kolor but the clear……..It will cause a ripple water effect all around the edge of were the hard water stain is…..No mater how big or mall……….
You will  not see it with your eyes until its dry and a done deal…….. Even tho the water stain is measured in MICO THOUSANDS it acts as a “GHOST RING ” around the out edge……Now if you add flake or fine powder it will look even worse because the clear actually causes pressure around the ” GHOST RING ” and as it cures it will move the flake or bronze powder……….!!!
Now if you did not contaminate this paint job in the wet sanding process , You can still do it when you painted the black base kolor and if you just cleared the caddy and when you left it to cure, It most likely happened when you wet sanded the clear ……… To get it flat and looking straight ……Then when you went to do the final clear with bronze it would of done this same effect on the clear you rubbed back…..
Now if you painted the caddy with black base kolor and then cleared it with bronze powder you could of either rubbed through the clear into the bronze powder and contaminated it at this stage also…….
Becase I don’t know the exact steps you did your paint job in I can not pin point it were it went wrong…….
But remember even if your using bronze powder you have the put a chain on your rear end and ” EARTH IT ” to the ground….This stops flake from standing up right on its side, When you see a paint job mostly on a car with lots of flake and you see the kolor change to ” SILVER ” this means the flake stood on its side and when it was wet sanded the flake or powder was rubbed and it turns ” SLIVER ”
No matter how good you are , If you got hard water stains contamination you will not stop it and you will not see it until you have completely finished…..
It has only ever happened to myself once and when I did the kustom Mercedes I had to completely Block and sand the whole car back, Not to mention the car belonged to a SALINAS C.A POLICE OFFICER……!!!!
THE FIX………!!!!
As Rod POWELL told me when I did a kustom 1962 Ford Falcon with crazy ROTH FLAKE , KANDY PURPLE and pin up Gals from old magazine’s cleared into the roof……And flames air brushed , I had it at the transmission shop 1 day after building the car for the Monterey Car week…… And had $3000 worth of HOUSE OF KOLOR paint and the worker took my car for a joy ride around the block and side swiped a car and ruined a KUSTOM paint job that was 24 hours old….!! Rod told me I was crazy for sanding the car back and starting again, After the car week I sanded it all back with 80 GRIT…….Rod told me to take it to the junk yard….!!! LOL…..He was joking….!!!
What you would need to do is use this as a positive….!!! Block the whole caddy back with 220 wet and dry and use it to get as much off but keeping the body work straight……….And get the mills back down and re base the kolor and do your first coats with the powder and then do the final coats in straight clear……… If you try to cut a corner at this stage you will be very disappointed in your self and your paint job….. So keep positive and block it back …….
When you get it all down with the 220 wet and dry, And you are happy switch to 400 wet and dry and skip 320 wet and dry…………Then switch to 800 wet and dry ………Some people leave the sanding at 600 wet and dry……But you can still see scratches……….
NEW BEGINNING OF THE PAINT JOB…….This time seal the whole caddy with Du Pont   XALTA 222’S ….This is a seal coat and with in 15 mins you can paint your base kolor ” WET ON WET ” It used to be grey kolor but now discontinued….You could even use HOUSE OF KOLOR sealer for this also , Up there in price tho…….
Hope this Helps Palle……..And Palle I did offer to come over and paint it for you Offer still stands if I come over and visit WOLF some time in the near future…….
KUSTOMLAND
hi guys….still alive. although i have bin down after all this shit. Luke…i am not 100 % what products they used for this. but i know they use ´Spies Hecker´ so thats probably it
the car was painted black only to see any imperfections, and to let everything settle for 4-5 months. the black was sanded down and primered. then it was painted the wanted color. its a gold color. the clear with bronze powder..and 2-3 layers of straight clear. after i think 5-6 days the clear was blocked down using a 800 grit wet. and then then 2-3 layers of clear
after 2 weeks i started sanding it down starting with 800–then 1500 then 3000. after that i have 3 different polish to end up with. but i thought i wasnt good enough to sand, cause it kept looking wawy. i then realized this was a problem under the clear. maybe the filler and paint just didnt settled and dried up. but still we gave it 5 months. i know lots of highend shops let there car sit for a year. and yes i will block the hole fuck…car down again.
maybe you should come over. well actuelly i regret i didnt paint it myself. so heres my chance. i am the kinda do it your self guy. not the best idea all the time. lets see what happens…
well i kinda got the energy back again. i spend many many hours tinkling with those taillights. that has bin a nightmare too. i know what i want, and i dont stop until it works
here somes photos from the taillight production. the rubber needs a little work, but you get the idea. i tried to use screws, because i felt they looked more correct, but the resin wasnt strong enough. so i came with the idea of using magnest. and they are actuelly pretty strong.
oh..and those of you that followed this thread knows that i worked on a new cluster. or should i say i reworked the old one.
o made the lower part in steel, and the upper part i pot metal. so what do i do with the chrome?? i called a guy that is putting silver on kids shoes…and he said no problem. he is painting the part with a metal paint, and then he is able to put cobber on the part
i got the cluster to finnish it, and make sure it fits. the old 48 cluster has this little diamond pattern stainless..so i had a bigger one made in the exact same size pattern. now trying to make that fit…lots of work.
Best of luck. This hobby/ life style can wear you down pretty quick but as you did,  you step back for a while and regroup. The Cad. looks  great
Hey Palle, life wasnât meant to be easy otherwise everyone would be doing it. I had a 57 Cadillac in dark metallic blue. It was my first car. Cost me an arm and a leg to paint it. It looked great until it got a mark on the door by a dumbfuck mate who instead of passing me a screwdriver like I asked him to , threw it through the air and it went â bang â on the door and then half the car needed repainting. Â I could have cried. I swore I would never have another metallic paint job after that.
Tailights look better than mine. Dash is gonna be sublime.
thanks guys…today i kinda feel shitty, but on the other hand good, because i started removing the clear on my car. cant wait till it has a new layer of color again.
this weekend i started on another small issue. i knew i had to work on this some day. i was afraid how to..but sometimes its just a matter of jumping in a get started.
as some of you remember…in the last century, i lenghtened the front fender fadeaway like 8″. there is a small running board too. this one is now like 3″ longer. so the original rubber pad doesn’t work to well.
so i just found some rubber..some stainless and lots of time and cold beer..good fun. now what i always hate..make one for the other side. that another story
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