My "37 Chevy truck build
- This topic has 324 replies, 23 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 6 months ago by Dave (a.k.a. rodncustomdreams).
-
AuthorPosts
-
August 30, 2016 at 17:55 #42500Ian GibbonsParticipant
Thanks guys. I am pretty sure the problem was I didn’t have enough air movement in my garage and the over spray settled back down on the parts and left a gritty surface. Anything that was vertical turned out pretty good but any surface that was horizontal looks like it was sprayed really dry so I have to think it was the over spray in the air landing on the surface.
It is what it is at this point I just trudge on. My only fear is the weather now and how long I will have before the cold sets in. We really start losing a lot of daylight hours at this time of year so it gets pretty cool at night and we have already had a few nights close to freezing. I hope it’s just a short run of cool temperatures and it will warm up a bit over the next couple of weeks.
August 31, 2016 at 07:12 #42512Manuel ReyesParticipantHey Ian,
You’re taking the big step in getting you truck painted. Tons of work so far, and you just need to be patient, take your time cause you still have a lot to do yet.
One word regarding the sealer. I and most painters I’ve known and know apply the sealer just prior to spraying your color. Sometimes you can wait overnight if you need to fix a few areas, but if the sealer sits longer it gets too hard and adhesion problems can rear its ugly head.
I get air moving by drawing air, overspray away from car. I don’t move air towards or over the car. This way you give the paint, sealer, or whatever you’re spraying a chance to flow out. Doing it this way also helps to prevent the dry spray finish that you don’t want when you’re blowing air where you’re going to spray..
Also…the proper thinner for your paint, depending on temperature / humidity. When I was painting cars (lacquer) I’d usually buy my thinner the day before actual painting, or as soon as I knew what the weather would be like on spray day.
Proper thinning regardless of the thinner grade is essential and properly adjusting material nozzle and fan takes practice, but quickly learned.
I wish I could be there to assist in your spraying since you don’t need to waste material and that is costly as you now know.
Sometimes I added a little more thinner and slowed my spray passes, especially in the hard to get to areas.
Hopefully you’ve likely practiced with some other lacquer paint to to get the feel of the gun and try to avoid stripes in your coverage.
Have a beer, put on your favorite tunes per Torchie’s suggestion, relax and go for it. If you built this great looking truck, made panels, did the mechanicals, then painting is another learned skill that I feel you van quickly master. You go boy.
Manuel ReyesAugust 31, 2016 at 08:07 #42513Ian GibbonsParticipantThanks Manuel I appreciate the comments and advise. The sealer I am using has a one week window for top coating without sanding and once sanded the tech rep said I should get at least another week to work with so my plan is to get everything sanded down this week and start spraying the first coats this weekend as we have a long weekend here so I have a few days.
The one thing I was wondering about is I have seen lots of guys suggest spraying a few coats and then letting it sit for a few days to let the solvents escape before applying more paint but they also say you have to sand before applying more paint. Is this really required? My worry is that if I spray the crescent bronze powder coats and then let it sit I won’t be able to sand it without ruining those coats like what would happen when you sand metallics. Any suggestions on the best approach?
August 31, 2016 at 19:40 #42523TorchieParticipantMy 2 cents Ian.
You are correct in your thinking in regards to not sanding.
I have never waited a few days to let solvents escape when painting. Put a coat on and let it flash. Then repeat.
It sounds like you are putting down a base and then top coating it? Try to get your top coats on as wet as possible. When I shoot lacquer(as well as single stage enamels) it looks really wet when it is done. Then when you wet sand it and buff it out it looks like a real soft shine. Too many people shoot their paint way to dry thinking that they can get it to look glossy by wet sanding and rubbing.
I also agree with Manuel on the air flow. A good paint booth would have the air drawing the fumes and over spray away from the car. When I am painting inside my garage I open the windows and put some cheap furnace filters in them. I pull down the garage door so that it rests on some dollar store box style windows fans that are blowing outwards thus pulling in the air thru the windows and the filters. Hell, some of my best paint jobs where done in my driveway on a windless day LOL.
Keep at it as we are all watching………….. NO pressure. π
TorchieAugust 31, 2016 at 21:25 #42525Ian GibbonsParticipantThanks Torchie. The problem I have with my garage is all the openings, man door and garage door, are both on the front of the garage and my windows are sealed non opening units. I will have to make do. I had very little issue with overspray when I was doing my test pieces in the garage with lacquer and on some of them it was pretty cold out there so things were not flashing as quickly as they will be now so I am hoping it will work out.
One other quick question what is the recoat window with lacquer? I am not expecting to have any interruptions while spraying buy I never know. If I have to leave something overnight can additional coats be added without sanding? Is the recoat window typically hours, a couple of days?
September 1, 2016 at 17:45 #42567TorchieParticipantOnce again this is just my experience from shooting lacquer back in the days…..
We never thought about lacquer as having a “recoating window” and I don’t recall that the specs even gave one.
Enamel is a different story but with Lacquer we just shot it and kept going till we were done. I seem to recall at least onee job were we got intterupted by a power outage and had to finish it the next day. All I remember doing is gently going over it with a tack cloth and the we resumed painting. Maybe some one will chime in here as well with there experience.
As far as starting and stopping goes.
Your truck is in pieces Ian so you may want to do each component from start to finish and then move on to the next one…..One of the issues with people that don’t paint often or are doing it the first time is arm and hand fatigue. Takes a lot more strength than it looks to hold that gun and air hose out there while controlling your movement speed.etc
After having seen the workmanship that you have already put into your truck I have great confidence in your ability to pull this off Ian.
Keep on keeping on.
TorchieSeptember 4, 2016 at 02:28 #42631Ian GibbonsParticipantNo turning back now! Sorry for the crappy picture but it’s the best I could get didn’t want to open the main door as it is windy as hell today.This is the gold powder in clear. I have done the doors as well. trying to decide if I should mount them to do the lime gold colour or just paint them separate.
September 4, 2016 at 03:42 #42632TorchieParticipantLooks good Ian. Nice and even.
I would paint them separate since you have them off unless you have a concern about patterning. It’s easier to get all around them when they are off.
Saw your post on the hamb. Hang tough and don’t rush it.
TorchieSeptember 4, 2016 at 04:09 #42633Larry PointerParticipantYes. I’m with Torchie. If you lay those doors flat you have much better control over how you lay the paint down evenly. Keep up the good work, Ian. Isn’t it gratifying when it all comes down to that coat of paint.
September 4, 2016 at 05:07 #42635Ian GibbonsParticipantThanks guys. The doors are hung up when I paint them off the truck as well but maybe I will just leave them off. I am not sure about patterning that was why I was asking. I really don’t have a clue what I am doing. I was able to fix the spills Torchie and that was just my own stupidity. I am using disposable paint cups and I over filled the cup the first time I had to refill it and paint leaked out of the vent tube.
I have had a bigger issue tonight though. I painted the hood and the front grill shell and the hood sides but I was doing the hood sides by the man door which I was keeping open to try and get some of the haze out of the garage while I was spraying and the temperature must have been quite a bit lower by the door because I go some serious runs in it. It looked great when I was done spraying and I sprayed it at the same intervals as the other two parts and they turned out great but when I went back later they had run badly so only thing I can think is it was much cooler by the door so it wasn’t flashing as fast as the other parts. Do I just sand out the runs and respray?
I have packed it in for the night and will start again in the morning. I had to stop because the filters in my respirator were so plugged up I was having trouble breathing so need to go get new ones in the morning. I am not surprised painters died young if one afternoon plugged two sets of filters. I have the 4 fenders ready to be sprayed in the gold next then I will start on the lime colour tomorrow. I left the box unsanded for now so I will wait and do it later as I didn’t want to have too much on my plate this weekend and if I sanded it now I would just have to resand it again when I was ready to paint.
September 4, 2016 at 08:47 #42638Rik HovingKeymasterLooks very good…. VERY exciting… Cant wait to see the picture from today, Sunday.
Good luck.. and have fun.Enjoy the beauty of Customizing
September 4, 2016 at 17:50 #42642TorchieParticipantGlad to hear that you got the drips sorted out Ian.
Carefully sand out the runs and respray.
You are most likely correct about the temp being different closer to the door. I was shooting a 1970 Eldorado at the Caddy dealership where I worked and the shop didn’t have a booth. One side of the hood was next to a set of windows and when I painted that hood (that was as big as an aircraft carrier landing deck) one side of it blushed. Guess which side. The one that was next to the window. Most likely that side was warmer from the light coming thru the window.
It is going to look great and just remember what I call the “Big Picture.” When it is done and all put together you will be the only one that knows about the little glitches. Everyone else is going to see a really COOL custom truck that You painted.
Like Rik said….. Have fun.
Torchie
p.s. When I think of all the car that I sprayed with out wearing a respirator….. Oh Mama πSeptember 4, 2016 at 21:26 #42644Ian GibbonsParticipantWell I have done something wrong with this process because the colour is coming out nothing like the two sprayouts Manuel did for me. It is way greener (it looks way more yellow on my screen than in real life)and I am not sure why. Maybe I didn’t add enough gold powder to the paint on the first few coats. He warned me about not getting it too muddy and it didn’t take much for it to start to look like it was turning brown but maybe that’s what I needed. Not sure where to go from here. This is three of 6 recommended coats so it’s only going to get worse. Sigh
September 4, 2016 at 22:55 #42645Rik HovingKeymasterOh boy…. that sure looks a lot greener than the sample.
Is there a way you can co over it with the gold mixed in with the clear, perhaps try it out on a piece of overspray on the inside of the door, to see that that will do? (Not an expert on this, so perhaps you should not listen to me, just thinking out loud)
Enjoy the beauty of Customizing
September 4, 2016 at 23:47 #42647TorchieParticipantHopefully Manuel sees this post and chimes in.
The door does look way off from the sample spray. The inside door edge of the door behind the sample seems to be a better match???? Same number of coats or is it just the difference in the lighting and the angle of that door?
Torchie -
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.