My "37 Chevy truck build
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Well I got a step closer to getting this thing on the road this week. Nothing that is exciting work wise but I was able to get a VIN number assigned to it which will put me one step closer to getting it registered. Had to jump through some hoops but in the end it all worked out so pretty relieved to have that done.
Covers do look great, Ian. Never thought of using body filler for a hammer form. Thanks for the tip! Torchie
I can’t take credit for the idea Torchie. I saw it on one of Wray Schelin’s youtube videos and when I was trying to figure out how to get things pushed around on the hubcaps I thought it would help and given I had a few old gallons of filler laying around that I wouldn’t use on a project I thought I would give it a go and it worked great. I also did a reverse one for the outer reverse bend but forgot to take a picture of it before I threw it out.
Now you’ve got me thinking about doing similar with some Caddy and 53 Lincoln covers I have. Might try the concrete (cheaper)
Now you’ve got me thinking about doing similar with some Caddy and 53 Lincoln covers I have. Might try the concrete (cheaper)
I really did work well Tony. I was able to use a slapper to even out all the highs and lows and it went way better than when I was trying to do it with a slapper and dolly. I just lined the inside with plastic wrap and poured the filler in. I liked the filler because I was able to sand and reapply product easily to smooth the form out. I work for a filler company so cost wasn’t a concern for once. 🙂
BTW, filler shelf life?
We (Evercoat)suggest about 18 months max from the date of manufacture for the filler itself. It is usually the hardener that causes most issues and degrades quite a bit faster so we say a year on that. We batch code all our products so we can tell when they were manufactured as do most other North American companies. I am not sure how the Australian manufacturers work with that info.
Not to hijack Ian’s thread but here is a link t a post he did over on the hamb concerning the proper use of body fillers.,
I found it to be very informative. So might others.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/body-filler-basics.1180243/
Now back to our regular custom truck programing.
Torchie
I have Evercoat.
Well then I can help. 🙂 There is a number on the bottom of the can and on the crimped end of the hardener. The first 3 digits of those numbers will tell you the manufacture date. The first is the year is was made so this years product will start with a zero, last years a 9 etc. The next two number indicate the month it was made 01 being January, 02 February etc. That will give you an idea of how old the product is.
I had an old guy show me this “trick” too. While I haven’t used filler for a hammer form, I have molded parts with it. I used that method to help make the lenses for my Buick’s tail lights. Old filler, if you can get it mixed up, works great. Mine was $10 a can. So no great expense.
Mitch
Well then I can help.
Thanks, I’ll check that. At worst I’ll pick up a fresh tube of hardener.
Well I think I have the door issue sorted out. There was a lot of swearing and angry days but I was able to push forward with some more on the interior having gotten that behind me. I have to put the glove box door back on, attach the rearview mirror and screw in the passenger side sill plate once I am satisfied I will not have to access the battery again and then the interior will be a wrap.
Then the last major thing to do is glue on the running board rubber. I have been dreading that for weeks as I am not sure what adhesive is going to work best so I have to screw up enough courage to attempt it.
I have been dreading that for weeks as I am not sure what adhesive is going to work best so I have to screw up enough courage to attempt it.
I’ll be taking notes. I have been having cold sweats over that task myself. I’ve read multiple versions of what to do, but when you only want to do it once, which way do you jump? My covers are Drake, and come with instructions and call for contact adhesive. But which one?
I have been dreading that for weeks as I am not sure what adhesive is going to work best so I have to screw up enough courage to attempt it.
I’ll be taking notes. I have been having cold sweats over that task myself. I’ve read multiple versions of what to do, but when you only want to do it once, which way do you jump? My covers are Drake, and come with instructions and call for contact adhesive. But which one?
Mine are home made out of floor runner so I have even less of an idea. I asked the company I bought the mat from what to use but they suggested a 3M spray adhesive and it sounded like a last resort because I was using it on a vehicle. “You could try” did not instill a lot of confidence. I have not had very good long term luck with most aerosol adhesives so I am leery . I have seen a number of people suggest urethane windshield adhesive so I am leaning that way but as you said you don’t want to have to do it more than once.
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