49 Hudson Nailhead Build
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June 25, 2018 at 00:24 #59269KustomKreepsParticipant
If you have ever seen what can happen if a driveshaft goes bad then you can understand the importance of drive shaft loops. Mandatory here in NZ and come with a raft of requirements on positioning, thickness, design, how many you need and god knows what.
The idea of being in a pole vaulting car as a broken shaft digs in to the pavement dosnt light my candle so to speak so Flockie and I got out to the shed and tackled the rear loop. one of the two the Hudson needs.
Nice thick 6mm plate all bent up for the loop then a sandwich of another couple of 6mill plates on the floor to hold it all in place.
Hanging off the loops floor plates we added more exhaust hangers. two for each muffler. this is to help stop the roll we had in the system that may cause issues over time. So in that section we have a bobbin/cotton reel mount carrying & positioning the load as it comes through the tunnel then two hangers just after it per muffler. We have so much tucked up in this area that we have to have that rigid placement to make sure all clearances are correct and everything stays where we want it to.
Also added the two 90s behind the diff with flanges with a couple of bobbin mounts. Although everything currently looks good with no movement in the system and ample(yet rather tight) gaps we realize things can shift so these back mounts mounting plate are bolted to the floor to add a bit of future flexibility should we get some rattle or something.
Guess next weekend we will do the front loop. Maybe run the front pipes and add the H cross over then toy with handbrake cable routing ideas(have a Lokar kit). Or perhaps look at the rear that will need strengthened & notched to allow the pipes to pass through.
July 2, 2018 at 00:49 #59463KustomKreepsParticipantExhaust is done for the time being. Sure we will take it off to weld up and paint in the coming weeks but this is as far as we will go on it until it is sitting back on ground.
Added in the two mid/front sections of pipe. Had to off-set one slightly to get better clearances etc as it comes forward to the trans. the H will be in the next section.
As for the back. Well cut the holes for where the exhaust will pass through the frame but really need the car on the ground with the bumper on to get this bit sorted. Will tidy this up next week I guess.
As you can see in the below pic everything is tucked up nicely. Those mufflers are 5 inch thick. Yip the big fat mothers are sitting flush with everything else and not dangling low whilst they have about half inch clearance from muffler to heat and sound treated floor.
Also started the park break.
Using a Lokar kit. The Wilwood disks at the back have a drum assembly as well for the park brake and everything just clipped together easy.
Routed the cables through the frame. Used a bit of airhose to insulate/protect the cables even though they are in a heavy duty housing. Thats what the blue pipes are on the top pic. Yeah not the best looking I know but really who cares. They will get painted up and after driving will be coated in road gunk in no time.
Made up a mounting plate with a access hole to get to the bolt under it.
Idea is the front handbrake cable(using the stock Hudson one) will run along the inside of the outer frame to a lever we will make up next week that will attach to these brake cables. Lever so we can apply more force and thus lock those brakes up more effectively.
You might of spotted the brake booster is in place. Was all very good chatting about levers etc for the handbrake but with real-estate under the car being restrictive we had to make sure both the brake booster and park break lever would fit in the same area together.
As you can see – plenty of room for the rest of the park break system/lever.
The placement of the break booster worked out ace. way better than I hoped for to tell the truth. All I had thought was along the lines of ” I want it out of sight maybe hidden away under the floor like the original Hudson system.” Well how Flockie designed up the front sub frame works so well with the setup. Will bolt right up to the frame as you can see and it aligns right up with the hole in the firewall for the brake pedal assembly.
Only issue was we had to cut a bleeping hole in the floor. Sigh. But what can you do? It hardly pokes through and with luck once its carpeted up with wont be noticeable.Guess I will give a run down on what im using. Hydrotech hydro boost unit. Supposed to be the bee’s knees with more stopping power than a vacuum booster. Runs off the PS pump not the engines vacuum so may free up a few HP. Has an accumulator that gives three or so full pressure presses of the pedal should a failure happen to the PS pump or something. Then the system would work like manual brakes.
Then a dual master cylinder. Bore of 1.125 in./1.578 in. Have a remote cap & reservoir to throw on it so I dont need to worry about access holes in the floor and lifting carpet etc to check the brake fluid etc. More on all this latter down the track I guess.
Will reposition the proportioning value under the MC instead of pointing down. Will also change out some of the hydrolic fittings to banjo’s /90’s.
But yeah happy how it all mounts up & aligns up. Was thinking we might have to make big brackets to hold it in etc but how it lines up and mounts up with the frame is ace.
July 2, 2018 at 05:40 #59464Mild MitchParticipantExcellent work! INSPIRING TOO!
Mitch
July 23, 2018 at 01:16 #59884KustomKreepsParticipantHaven’t been up to much of late. this is more like a car diary update for my self than any progress update I guess.
Exhaust is all TIGed up. looks good and rather jealous of Flockies nice even pattern he is able to achieve compared to the mess my efforts tend to yield.
Whilst the sun was shining the better half got out the spray gun and painted up the exhaust then touched up the lizard skin here and there under the car.
Flockie got busy on the lathe and machined up some bushings for the front airbags then made some other non-collapsible bits to help mount up the brake booster. Tell you having all the kit to just go machine up stuff as you need it is brilliant and a great time saver.
Booster is all sitting up nice n pretty. Tucked up under the floor panel with a remote reservoir cap on it to make life easier in the future. Will change out the long low pressure out fitting you see just ending at the bottom of the frame to a banjo style so every thing is kept well up and safe. Thought this image might be of interest to other stepdown Hudson owners who have thought about updating the stock MC and wanted to know if a more modern duel style would fit.
Chucked on a few tires. Getting tires on/off the back has always been a bit of a concern. Happy to report the back 235 on 7 inch wide rims went on just fine. Clearance on the inner side is a bit tight. say 1/2″ from the rubber to frame. so will get a 10mm slip on spacer just to give a bit more breathing room. Have about two inch from top of tire to wheel well at air out. Before any one says – yes will clamp down that handbrake cable.
Also need a spacer up front as the outer step part of the wheel centers just barley hit the big bleeping 6 pot calipers. Bit of a shit when you get custom rims made up then need to use spacers. Still its nothing major I guess.Its going to sit nice n low how we wanted it. Wont see any of the red rims once its on the ground with its skirts on at air out. Heck with a tank of gas and all the other weight might only see a small bit of the white as well.
We are swapping out the shockwave air bags over air shocks at the back to a larger ones. With adjusting the mounts on the diff we will be able to obtain the same low air out height as it currently sits whilst being only slightly higher on ride height and much higher on air up / fully inflated. If that’s to low then we can go up another one or two inch but will not be able to go lower with out fab work.August 6, 2018 at 04:05 #60150KustomKreepsParticipantNot much of an update really as I have been working over the last weekends.
Have decided not to run the spacers and will get the rims either altered if possible or two new rims made up.
Some people on some sites I post say just grind the calipers but dont really want to go attacking the expensive 6 pot behemoths. Also think I would need more than the two or three mill most people say should be fine. No idea how they look inside so dont want to go putting holes in them.
new shocks arrived and fit up nice. Air our low height is the same but max air up is wayyy higher. like above stock standard hudson.
oh tires are all bolted up at the back as well as you can see.
other than that fiddled around with the brakes a bit. Need to take all the brake line off to flare it but did a few smaller bits.
Did nice little piggie tail loops from the MC to prop valve. Word is they help with line flex & vibrations. We did a straight line then a piggietail. I wasnt sure what I liked more. the clean look of the straight line or the more fancy loops. went for the loops in the end as you can see. Didnt take long just hand bent around a socket, pulled apart all even then flared.
What do you guys think about looped lines?
August 27, 2018 at 01:44 #60516KustomKreepsParticipantDropped off the front rims to get the backspacing adjusted so I wont need to run spacers. With luck will be ready next week. Then it can come off the rotisserie!
We have been feking about with the brakes still. mounted up the park-brake etc but have decided to change it up yet again. the current setups lever is only like 2:1 may change it to 3:1. basically by drilling another hole.
Top holes are for a spring I still need to get.The front after market drive shaft loop (thanks guys at Kruzin Kustoms) is just sitting there but will be bolted up next weekend. Just need to make up some plates for the inside to sandwich mount it to the floor. Should mount in the middle of the circles on the floorpan under the seat.
Plumbed up the back brakes. Mounts fabed up with a recess cut out of them to allow water to flow and not pool. No doubt it will soon get a stone or something in it but mehh what can you do.
Flexy lines all positioned to clear any obstacles such as frame, bags, bumpstops, tires and what ever else at all airbag heights.
Have ran the RH side front hard line. Need to get a lil more hardline to do the other side. Also need to grab a couple of fittings. then brakes are done pretty much.
So front DS loop and a few meters of brake line work and done. May just put the old rims on it and take it off if I dont have patience to wait further week to get my old rims back, tires on and balanced.
‘Mo on Jalopy Journals HAMB forums gave me the idea of suicide rear doors. Rather like that idea I must admit. May be something we will look into a bit further down the track.
September 7, 2018 at 00:19 #60695KustomKreepsParticipantFinally on the ground.
image below for an idea on air up height.
And air out. Note it will have side pipes that will make it a tad lower still.
A+B=Fun.
September 7, 2018 at 08:42 #60697Kyle ConnoleParticipantLooking good! Man! I should have taken the rotisserie from the shop when I had the chance to, looks like much more comfortable work than on jack stands.
April 2, 2019 at 10:38 #63487KustomKreepsParticipantOh man I haven’t updated this for so long. Six months ~ time fly’s and all that guff.
Didnt really do anything to the Hudson over the Summer. Messed about on the old 52 Buick a bit as it has been playing up but other than its all been work or play I guess.Anyway thats my lifes catch up hour complete. lets talk old jalopies & do a quick catch up on to where the Hudson currently sits. And then with luck I will pull my finger out so to speak and start updating this more regularly.
I should warn you all now this might be a tad pic heavy. Photobomb you all since I plan to follow the old saying “A picture is worth a thousand words”. Oh and images are all odd sizes due to camera settings at the time. dratted updates.
First off the engine was put back in and tight tuck headers thrown on.
Left hand side had clearance issues so we put spacers on the engine mounts raising the engine a fraction to cure the issues. Although we have clearance at the firewall it will get cut more to tidy things up and give a tad more room.
Wheels on, engine in and sitting on the ground… better jump in and visualize cruising.
Radiator slotted in. Happy that we modded the thing to have twin fillers and a central top outlet. Purely for aesthetic reasons really. Just hope it will work well.
Was a bit concerned about the amount of space between the rad and engine at first. but once the custom fan shroud is on and other junk is in there the gap should fill up I hope.
With the engine in and headers on next steep seems logical enough – fab up the front exhaust. Was surprised how easy it went.
Heap of room on each side so no issues getting to the oil filter or anything else. Still is rock solid.
Welded all up ready for a quick paint and fitting. H balance pipe just at the tail of the trans. the two extra out lets poking out the sides are for the lake pipes – I like the idea of them being functional if i want. Looking at the above pic and below you will note they are situated in a low spot. this is not just cus it is just where they should be body wise but also to stop the possibility of any water pooling.
Shiny sh!t
First off i will say IDIDIT sales are top blokes. Why they never just blocked my emails is beyond me. For two years one, two or 4 times a month I would email them asking when there RHD column shift steering column would be ready. Patient bunch always emailed back. After a year or so they made up a column – it failed Aussie testing as it was to strong and didnt collapse enough. Will point out NZ cert laws are also extremely tight around steering columns with only four or so aftermarket brands being aloud. Rightly so as it is a big spear that could impale you. Anyway im waffling. To cut a long story short they have now made up a RHD column shift column- although its still not on the website. Since I had to wait so long they gave me a huge discount.
Was a happy boy unboxing all teh steering crap.
Initial fit up. Wasn’t to thrilled on how the column sat at the dash. column drop was to low(as pictured below) so decided to order in a new one. Slightly cutting up the dash but will be worth it to get it to sit up in the stainless strip more.
Whilst we waited for the shorted column drop it was decided to cut up the firewall a bit more as next we would need to figure out the lower floor mount for the column that currently dangled in the air.
Three double D universals will be used. Bit tight near the headers but still will be easier than some setups.
Below looks closer to the headers than it really is. has near an inch I guess of clearance.
Its all nice and tight no slop or wiggle and more importantly no binding.
With the front exhaust and steering done its time to move to the gaping hole in the floor and firewall.
Top of the firewall all buttoned up. Will get cleaned up down the track but for now at least we have an area to bolt the trans cover to. Heap of room to fiddle about on the distributor etc.
Skellington framework being made up for the trans cover. Bit by floor mount will get altered as I dont want it to be incorporated into the trans cover. Who wants the bother of removing the column to get the trans cover out? Will get it all folded up. Note the columns new position up further in the dash. Tilt column so should be ace.
Been teaching myself Solidworks. Designed up the fan shroud and got it cut n folded.
A couple of Spall high performance fans sit on the the shroud. I figure if they are good enough to cool NASCAR and high end sports cars then they should suck air through the four core copper rad and keep the old donk chilly. The rubber flaps are for highway speeds to let trapped hot air out. Middle rivets hold a divider in place that separates each fan. Thinking here being air follows the path of least resistance. So if only a single fan is running then air would draw through the other fans opening and not through the rad. Being in separate chambers hopefully will stop this happening.
So yeah thats me pretty much! All caught up with the Hudson project. With luck will be getting back to it more now its coming into Autumn.One side note is the missus has got her self a new car. Just a small grocery getter / run about. A 1956 Morris Minor split window series II coupe. Seems to be rust free and mechanically sound little car – totally road worthy and legal. Owned by a nursing home from new till the old couple who she purchased it off got it. Garaged and loved all its life.
So what do you do when you get a honest survivor in good condition?
Cut it up of course!
TheMoose on HAMB photoshoped it doing all we asked. chop roof, fade-away fenders, skirts & lower it. Like an old 47 buick just compacted. Once the current warrant of fitness runs out (6 months) the fun begins. Oh and old 30HP factory engine will be going as well.April 2, 2019 at 20:33 #63490James DParticipantGreat progress on the Hudson. Enjoyed reading all that.
Rather too many artistic liberties taken on your Morris rendering there. Any hack with photoshop can distort stuff however they want in two dimensions, but lowering the front wings would be an utter nightmare, as would trying to roll the back of the roof into a fastback shape to match the boot lid. You´ve got an entire body line, where the car steps in below the side windows, that you´d have to just lose somewhere to get a smooth transition.
April 8, 2019 at 01:30 #63570KustomKreepsParticipantStarted on the floor at the back.
The cover over the diff will be able to be removed should we ever need access to the diff, air bags or what ever from the top.
A few folded strips added for both strengthening and to giving us a place to attach the main 2mil sheet cover added first with nutserts.
Cover that had been pre cut n folded dropped in place pretty much with a bit of tapping.The shelf is the perfect place for the Ridetech 5 gallon tank, twin pumps and all the other air ride junk.
With it up there out of the way it frees up space in the boot/trunk. Positioned to the side to leave space for the stereo amp or what ever else.
Need to get a few counter sunk bolts to attach the fuse panel. the 5 gallon tank has 5 outlets (not including drain ofc) three are used by the system. another I have put a tire inflation valve on just encase both the pumps die it gives me the option to pump it up at a service station. the last im thinking of putting a fitting on so I can plug in a hose that can be used to inflate tires.
The system comes with multiple ways to control. Bluetooth/cell phone/tablet, remotes, or a control panel. Will mount the control panel on the air pod board at the back there.June 17, 2019 at 03:44 #64389KustomKreepsParticipantWelcome back viewers to yet another ever so thrilling update on the old Huddyson.
Sitting here and looking back over the last few years I must scratch my head and ask where has all that time gone. I really did believe it would of been driveable by now – road legal or not legal.
Life has its way of derailing such grand time frames as im sure you all are aware and the fact that even though the parts im using may not be the most expensive out there they sure dont come cheap. To paraphrase Oedipus, Hamlet, Lear, and all those guys, “I wish I had known this some time ago.” Everything was such a damned nice idea when it was an idea yet as with everything How you look at it is pretty much how you’ll see it I guess. And looking at it I can see the old gal ride low n slow down the street fast n loud on the highways everytime im out working on the old beast. God i got a tad philosophical there for a moment… what are they adding to the water around these parts. /twitchEnough of that nonsense. let start the normal barrage of images and brief explanations.
Back floor all patched up over four link brackets. Holes added for access & removal of the top bars bolts.
Sparks and smoke flying up front as the Trans cover was all made up like a big jigsaw.
To help pull the drivers side floor up the brake boosters cover has been incorporated onto the trans cover to add rigidity.
Since the brakes are all tucked away under the floor and me being a bit of a lazy sod im using a remote reservoir.
The brake pedal was a bit of a sod that took up a heap of time. Due to the floors sloping angle and other factors we couldn’t do a normal pivoting bar as the inside push rod where you stand would be pointing towards the floor. So a duel/tandem lever was made up. its somewhere between 4:1 and 5:1 ratio. Still got to get the adjustable top links. but tested with a bit of bar and have heaps of travel for the booster. Grease nipples all over the place. Machined up brass bushes and ya its solid as. Have to get the actual pedal and the other lever bar it connects to tested still.
Moving on to smaller jobs now. Power steering. As i have mentioned I think some time ago im using a PSC setup made for rock-crawlers. So if its powerful enough to drive and survive the crazy setups they have it should be fine for my setup.
Now I didnt want to take away from the finned engine dress-up stuff when you open the hood. So a low mount bracket was fabbed up. The little pump has a heap of adjustment, lines up nicely with the other pulleys and is tucked nice and low that will not only keep it out of eye sight but since the pump is gravity feed from the reservoir that will be mounted up by the radiator it will have ample full as well.
Mounted up the trans cooler up front of the radiator after I drilled a few holes and added grommets for the hoses. Should be hidden away enough not to be noticed.
Got the cad skills out again to design up the gas tank. Its about 19Gallons/72litres. The tail pipes are rather close together so the plan is cut a hole in the trunks floor and have half the tank through this and then the other half taking up much of the trunks floor space. Baffles will also add bracing for those times I may throw heavy loads like tires ontop of it. The bottom should be flush or just tucked up with the bottom of the chassis whilst the top will come nearly up to the trunks lip/bottom of the door. So it shouldn’t be a hindrance or noticeable. One end is slightly deeper for the pump and sender. Josh and the guys at Apex in Oamaru cut n folded it up. Top guys with some great kit that I highly recommend. They also made up that Hudson logo for a bit of fun what was nice of them and chucked it in. Until I figure out what to do with it I plan to use it as a stencil to tag a few things around the garage. \,,/(-.-)\m/
On a bit of a separate note the missus has taken up slinging a bit of one shot paint of late. Hell yeah I say. Im more than happy to buy the brushes, paints and what ever if it means I can get some lines laid down on pretty much what ever I want. I think she is busting it out but naturally I may be a tad one eyed, biased and not the best judge in the matter.
Take a look any way.
Some panels up near the top of below pic in my garage.
Cooler to go with her Morrie
Door she made up for Flockie on an old 40s Ford pickup door.
And of course hand bags… she has a thing for handbags.
July 11, 2019 at 12:58 #64622KustomKreepsParticipantSeems im overdue for another update. Best remedy that I guess and spew forth more pics.
To keep all the electricals ticking im using a Powermaster 150amp 1 or 3 wire alternator. As i stated above I wanted all the brackets as low as possible. unfortunitly cooling hoses got in the way in the middle positions and the powerstearing rack when it was really low. So its had to go up higher but is still low as we could get it. Still its not to bad I guess.
Also mounted up the radiators overflow seen above.
On the other side of the rad we mounted up the PS/hydroboost reservoir. Three port jobbie.
Under the car a fly wheel cover was fabbed up. Stock would not work due to the trans adapter. Bit of split pipe was used for the notches to clear the torque converters covers ridges.
Car is off the jack stands and front panels are bolted on. not all the bots etc are in but enough to keep it together until I get new bolts for it all and get it done right.
Old Nailhead sits in there nicely.
Steering wheel thrown on just so we can roll it about easier. GT Performance 9 bolt hub, 15.5″ wheel and horn. Really wanted a wheel with a horn ring cus I love those things but ones that suit smaller wheels are bleeping expensive so it can wait.
Car is sitting pretty darn low. Like the lowest part is the brace that joins/strengthens the front sub side to side much like the original Hudson setup. I haven’t measured it but I guess we have 30-40mm clearance to the road.
As you can see with the good old beer bottle next to the car… it low.
keep in mind we still have to add side pipes – its that big ol hole you may of spotted in the above pic. You will see also that we will have a heap of room for them under the rockers. They also have a bit of a curve whats a bonus as it will (with luck) keep them out of ankle range whilst keeping them nicely tucked up so we dont rip em off.
and moving right along… side shot just cus I like it. yes I know the car is dirty but so is my mind and I like it that way.
Now talking about burning ankles on side pipes a subject by gal has mentioned most times I bring up lake pipes. My answer generally goes along the lines of “wear heels” below pic proves it. Ankle out of burn range.. toes on the other hand she has never mentioned.
But seriously – like the back tire viewed air out side on.
Enough farting around talking about air out this and that. Throw a battery in and test that shiz.
Yip yours truly testing it out. We left it air up for a few days and I was pleasantly surprised to find it stayed there with only a few psi drop from what I left it at uniformly across each wheel. I will mark that to atmosphere and not any slow leak due to it being across all four wheels not just one.
yeah i know the front could be bolted on a bit better but ahh stuff it it will be off again anyway.
And just cus im feeling all gangsta…
i know it aint hydraulics but it will do me.
When air up we must be around 150mm at that one low point in the middle just behind the wheels. Ass end that has larger bags naturally goes much higher.July 14, 2019 at 06:05 #64629KustomKreepsParticipant
I need a bigger garage…August 5, 2019 at 12:26 #64888KustomKreepsParticipantThe better half and my self have been honing our skills of late.
Thats right boss. Hours of hard yards have been put in out in the garage.
You all know it and have no doubt also spent many hours doing it.…. Standing there with a beverage staring at an old jalopy, talkn shit and do’in sweet fek all.
But seriously what have we been up to other than throwing back jars and chin wagging you say whilst dressed in trendy garage attire.Well ladies and gentlemen wait no longer for here is yet another riveting update to cover the little bit of work we actually did.
Radiator all plumbed up. the finned metal hoses bend and hold shape well.
like how its kinda central in the engine bay. Replaced the hose clamps that came with it with stronger jobbies as I couldn’t be feked with hoses blowing off and coolant going everywhere.Moved on to hooking up the column shift to the trans. Using an IDIDIT GM/700R4 universal shift kit. Thinking being since im using an IDIDIT column it would all just be bolt on. Well that was the theory anyway.
Basically it would work fine if I was LHD. the instructions are nice and simple and kit straight forward and well made. Would just bolt in. Being RHD its all opposite though and naturally the American brand dosnt included any instructions and when I contacted support I got no help and basically told me to fek off.
LHD shifting would pull the cable out as it moves from park through the gears. RHD we push it in as we move through the gears from Park – 1st. Rejigging at the column is an easy fix. just throw the car in park pull out the cable and hook it up (As pictured). Basically doing opposite as instructed.
The bracket that fits to the trans had to be bent so the tab that holds the cable pointed upwards not downwards. Then an extension made up for it.
Reason being that the shift arm on the trans is made to point downwards and pull through the gears. Since im pushing through the gears it had to be mounted up top. So the bracket that holds the cable in place had to also point up.
Simple enough I know but thought since IDIDIT support and engineers where about as useless as tits on a bull I would flick it up encase any other Kiwis or RHD owners needed a bit of help.
Shifts easy though the gears. Clicks from Park to 1st.Ordered a heap of fittings for the fuel system. But before I start hooking all that guff up it was deemed time to finally finish up the gas tank thats mentioned in a previous post.
Its made to nestle up nice and happy in this rather large hole that was cut in the boot/trunks floor. Its hard to tell but the hole has been braced up fro the underside so when its all together the floor will be sandwiched and nice and sturdy.
Since the lid was still off it seemed a good time to put together the in tank fuel pump. Overkill to be sure since its only driving a few carbs and not fuel injection. But it has good reviews and is supposed to be pretty quiet so I was like mehhh seems easy enough and should be “hook it up and forget about it”.
Its an Aeromotive Phantom in-tank carb setup. Basically meaning it has a regulator (pictured there front center) that drops the 320psi pump down to 15psi. Also has its return blocked with a removable cap. Comes with pre-filter pictured along with that sponge tube that you cut a tad higher than your tank and acts as a filter and a baffle.
Also put together the Dakota Digital universal sender. As with all there stuff its a nice bit of kit with simple instructions. Has the ability to fit in a huge range of depth tanks and works with many gauges.Anyway lid all TIGed up. Also the filler neck and drain added. Holes added before assembly to make life easier. Then the sender and pump just all dropped on in to place.
Under the car it sits up nice. tucked just above the lowest part of the chassis. Should be no scrub line issues. Also still has a nice amount of clearance from exhaust – its why its an odd T shape.
Up top it is about level with the lip of the opening. Will have a floor mounted above it latter down the track.
The rest of the other bits of the fuel filler neck still to attach pictured above. Also pictured is the cradle to hold the battery box that we wiped up to hold it all nice and secure on the right side.
Just using a standard marine battery box. Fits up nice in the back fender as shown. Can vent it through the floor. Will have a panel to hide it from view down the track. The battery only just fits in whats good i guess – no slipping about.
The big bugger should power everything I need and flick over the engine no worries. Looking at either welding cable or 1guage wire to carry the current up the front. earths all over the place of course.
So picture the above with panels. sides to hide the battery and tool kit along with fuel neck that will live on the other side. floor to protect the tank then front panel to hide the airtank and amp whilst also adding sound deadening to the shut up those two pumps.Now getting back to my original comments in this post. That being the standing staring at the car. Maybe moving something a fraction taking a drink and repeating the process.
Side pipes seemed like a good excuse to practice this. We had to go through the process of draining a few cans to use to hold the pipes in place first of course. Sacrifices we make aye.
Note the said cans are crimpled in the middle otherwise they are much to high to suit the air out stance with the pipes.
Front grill also seemed like a good excuse. Pondering a 1950 Buick grill. Middle section should fit in well once pushed back but its overall width is wider than the car. Dont really want to cut the chrome as it is so nice so I guess if we use it we may need to flair the guards a bit. Already planned to do this a bit to get better wheel travel for steering when air out but hmm I think this is something a few more brews and staring might require. All this is much down the track of course.
Tiki – such a great helper. You got a wire he will attack it. Drop a nut and he will soon have it flying across the garage floor ending up down the side of some thing out of reach or under some other heavy obstacle. Told him I would stuff him is such a pose if he keeps annoying me. Guess he is happy with that idea as the little shit hasn’t stopped. -
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